This catalonian crag is having a new lease of life thanks to Abella Climb (www.abellaclimb.com) a non-profit association established to develop a sustainable approach to outdoor activities like rock climbing, mountain biking, walking and permaculture based land management. In June they organized a climbing festival to celebrate some of the new lines and re-introduce climbers to the area.
Caroline Ciavaldini in Alter Ego 7c+
Abella de la conca’s medieval dwellings and cliffs credit Pemi Braso
A festival of international climbers
The slovenian machine, Klemen Becan, was the first to arrive a few days before the festival. Klemen says he never takes a rest day because wherever he goes he always brings the rain so he climbs whenever the weather allows and rests when it doesn’t. In Abella, that meant 2 weeks of non-stop climbing! Not that he seemed unhappy about that mind you, his head-start quicky gave him the first ascent of Somni Sauna a technical 30m overhanging wall with micro tufas and he gives it 8c, Abella’s first line at this grade. He wasn’t just here for the climbing though – with a zest for adventure like the best of explorers he bounded out of the refuge each morning on a quest for new lines, equipping a new one almost everyday. One of the most memorable is Endless Journey Abella’s longest route to date at 60m 8a+ and set to be a future classic.
Klemen Becan in Endless Journey 8a+ Credit Francisco Taranto
Kevin Aglae, ranked 5th in France, and Enzo Oddo, who climbed Biography 9a+ at 15 arrived a few days later and were quick to grab first ascents with "Naughty elephant party"8c for Enzo and"Festa major"8b+ for Kevin.
Kevin Aglae in Tand Troll 8a
Enzo Oddo attempting one of Abella’s hardest lines 9a?
James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini also made the trip. Their second visit to Abella left them both impressed with the prolific bolting activity and the completed renovation of Abella’s Eco-Refugi – the last time they stayed there the roof was falling in! Despite James’s own DIY resulting in a need to climb with only one shoe they both did some pretty impressive assents including the now classic "So del Voltor"8a+ and some good tries in "La Conca Guay" now probably 8c+ since some holds broke.
James Pearson’s one shoe ascent of So dels voltor 8a+
A celebration of nature and community
But the main objective wasn’t just about highlighting the hard grades, half of the areas’ 250 routes are 6c and below and the festival offered an opportunity for climbers of all abilities to come and (re)discover this crag. For Abella Climb though climbing’s about more than rock routes, it’s also about community, nature connection and shared adventure. The day included a chance to sample tasty local products, try out new climbing gear, watch the premier screening of Foto Vertical’s latest climbing documentaries and finished with a huge dinner and party with the local villagers. Climbers from all over the world chatted with people who have lived in Abella all their lives, stories were shared and the usual sleepy village didn’t resume its usual tranquility until the following dawn.
Screening of Zembrocal credit Pemi Braso
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oirG3D-W7Zk)and Rio a montanas ( http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/enzo-oddo-and-gabriele-moroni-search-for-undiscovered-climbs-in-brazil-%7C-journey-to-brazil-ep-1/280412?header_b=1&b=1)
The whole event, sponsored by Vaude and Edelrid was a great success, not least because of the respect and responsibility shown by everyone who came along to the place, the people and to the restrictions in plac. So much so that the following day when everybody left it was like nothing ever happened here…
The Crags
Abella de la Conca now has around 250 climbs of all grades from beginners routes III to some of the hardest projects in the world - 9a and above. It’s one of the rare all year climbing place in Catalunya. Some sectors like Esglesia, Canyon Bajo, Font de les Gotes and Panorama are great for families as they offer very little walking, a flat base, and grades from III to 8a+.
Sectors Forat dels Lladres (The Arches), Canyon Bajo, Costera and Gipsy Camp offer great summer climbing in north faces, high airy cliffs or cool pools to paddle in-between routes.
Sector Canyon Bajo: El foradot 7b, FA by Paul Dupras in picture credit Ramon Marin
Sectors Voltor & Mur Blau and the beautiful but hard wall of Canyon Alto have plenty to keep you occupied in the winter months, their southerly direction offering perfect t-shirt climbing in December.
Some sectors are climbable all year as you’ll always find sun or shade at different times during the day like the Verdonesque sector of Congost, Panorama, Altiplano and Costera.
Costera: Climber on Lligat al Paraxocs 7a+ one of Abella’s first route equipped by Margalef Refugio Owner Jordi Pou
The best guidebook for the area is the 2013 edition ofLLeida Climbs (www.lleidaclimbs.com). Information and topos containing new routes and grade updates are available in the Eco Refugi for a 2 euro contribution to the bolt fund.
There are also a handful of quality semi-equipped multipitch routes which are best climbed on sunny winter days with topo’s in the Eco Refugi.
How to get there
The Abella Climb Association encourages people to use public transport and car sharing where possible. The village is very small so please park carefully and considerately if you do bring your vehicle. Visitors and tourists are welcomed in the village but blocked access to farms, tracks and turning areas would damage relationships and potentially lead to a ban on outdoor activities.
Bus: From Barcelona 3 times a day to Isona (free pick up organised in advance) www.alsa.es for timetables.
Train: From Barcelona to Tremp (pick up 8 people max can be organised in advance). If you are travelling internationally by train www.seat61.comis a good resource. www.renfe.es is the Spanish train website.
Car Share: www.liftshare.com & www.carpooling.co.uk in the uk, www.compartir.org in spain.
Hitching: www.hitchwiki.org A great site if you want to travel cheaply and reduce emissions.
Aeroplane: Closest airports are Barcelona El Prat (BCN), Barcelona Reus and Toulouse, France. Pick up (8 people max) can be organised at a fee from BCN or Reus.
