© ClimbingAway
Margalef (Racó de les Tenebres) - Spain

Oliana

Interesting rock climbing area for routes starting from 8a (french grades).
Best time(s) :
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • Sept.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.
Aspect(s) : SE     Altitude : 700 m
Approach 15 min up hill.    Kids friendly ? foot of the crag reasonable for young kids.

Informations :

Between 10 and 25 routes, from 7b to 9b.   Bolting : sport climbing
Max Height : 50 m.
Rock : limestone.    Characteristic(s) : steep wall Dévers, vertical Vertical.    Type(s) of holds : pockets / holes, crimps, ribs.
Legendary route(s) : 
  • Humildes pa casa 8b+/8c 1st female onsight 8b+/8c by Maja Vidmar on 6 april 2010. 2nd female onsight 8b+/8c sent by Mina Markovič on 12 dec 2014.
  • Mind Control 8c sent by Daila Ojeda on 16 feb 2012. Firsts repeats : Nina Caprez (2012), Caroline Ciavaldini (2012), Sasha Digiulian (2012), Evgeniya Malamid (2013), Barbara Raudner (2013), Isabelle Bihr (2013), Mar Álvarez (2013), Aleksandra Taistra (2013), Akiyo Noguchi (2013), Barbara Zangerl (2014), Mina Markovič (2014), Florence Pinet (2015), Jessica Pilz (2015), Monique Forestier (2016), Kajsa Rosén (2016), Katherine Choong (2017). Others outstandings sends : Emma Twyford (2018), Michaela Kiersch (2018), Emily Harrington (2018), Margo Hayes (2018).
  • Fish Eye 8c sent by Daila Ojeda on 26 feb 2010. Firsts repeats : Maja Vidmar (2010), Eva López (2011), Nina Caprez (2011), Christine Schranz (2012), Caroline Ciavaldini (2012), Evgeniya Malamid (2012), Maria Davies Sandbu (2012), Monique Forestier (2012), Barbara Raudner (2012), Isabelle Bihr (2012), Andrea Cartas (2013), Muriel Sarkany (2013), Florence Pinet (2013), Matilda Söderlund (2013), Anak Verhoeven (2013), Mar Álvarez (2013), Aleksandra Taistra (2013), Raquel Hernández (2014), Barbara Zangerl (2014), Hazel Findlay (2014), Janina Gmiter (2014), Mina Markovič (2014), Hélène Janicot (2014), Kajsa Rosén (2016), Laura Rogora (2017), Katherine Choong (2017), Michaela Kiersch (2018), Margo Hayes (2018).
  • Full Equipe 8c sent by Daila Ojeda on 3 dec 2010. Firsts repeats : Nina Caprez (2011), Emily Harrington (2011), Helena Alemán (2011), Barbara Raudner (2012), Barbara Zangerl (2014), Evgeniya Malamid (2014), Jessica Pilz (2016), Kajsa Rosén (2016), Laura Rogora (2017), Katherine Choong (2017).
  • American Hastle 8c sent by Michaela Kiersch on 9 april 2018.
  • Joe Blau 8c+ sent by Jessica Pilz on 31 dec 2015. Others outstandings sends : Laura Rogora (2017), Anna Liina Laitinen (2017), Michaela Kiersch (2018), Margo Hayes (2018), Martina Demmel (2021).
  • La Morenita 8c+ sent by Martina Demmel on 3 april 2021.
  • Duele la realidad extension 9a first ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanque on 1 nov 2010.
  • Duele la realidad (R2) 9a first ascent by Dani Andrada on 15 dec 2010. First repeat : Chris Sharma (2011).
  • Joe-Cita 9a sent by Laura Rogora on 27 feb 2017. Others outstandings sends : Martina Demmel (2021).
  • Patxitxulo 9a/9a+ sent by Anak Verhoeven on 9 oct 2021.
  • Papichulo 9a+ first ascent by Chris Sharma on 31 may 2008. Firsts repeats : Adam Ondra (2009), Ramón Julián Puigblanque (2009), Sachi Amma (2010), Cédric Lachat (2011), Jakob Schubert (2011), Domen Škofic (2014), Magnus Midtbø (2015), Mateusz Haladaj (2015), Jonathan Siegrist (2015), Daniel Woods (2016), Matty Hong (2016), Piotr Schab (2016), Said Belhaj (2016), Klemen Bečan (2016), Patxi Usobiaga (2017), Jon Cardwell (2017), Felipe Camargo (2017). 4th female 9a+ sent by Margo Hayes on 22 march 2019, Sébastien Bouin (2019), Kamil Ferenc (2019), David Firnenburg (2020), Mathieu Bouyoud (2021), Thibault Lair (2023).
  • Power inverter 9a+ first ascent by Sachi Amma on 16 feb 2015. First repeat : Jonathan Siegrist (2015).
  • Chaxi 9a+ first ascent by Chris Sharma on 5 may 2011. Firsts repeats : Cédric Lachat (2013), Jonathan Siegrist (2017).
  • Power Inverter 9a+ first ascent by Chris Sharma on 15 dec 2010. Firsts repeats : Adam Ondra (2013), Ramón Julián Puigblanque (2014).
  • Joe Mama 9a+ first ascent by Klemen Bečan on 1 march 2016. Firsts repeats : Matty Hong (2017), Jonathan Siegrist (2017), Jon Cardwell (2019), Sean Bailey (2019). Others outstandings sends : Anak Verhoeven (2019), Piotr Schab (2020), Sébastien Bouin (2020), Jorge Díaz-Rullo (2020).
  • Pachamama 9a+/9b first ascent by Chris Sharma on 29 may 2009. Firsts repeats : Sachi Amma (2011), Ramón Julián Puigblanque (2015), Jakob Schubert (2017), Adam Ondra (2017), Jonathan Siegrist (2017), Patxi Usobiaga (2017), Sébastien Bouin (2019), Piotr Schab (2019), Cédric Lachat (2020).
  • Fight or Flight 9b first ascent by Chris Sharma on 5 may 2011. Firsts repeats : Adam Ondra (2013), Jakob Schubert (2014), Sachi Amma (2015), Matty Hong (2018), Piotr Schab (2019).
  • Chaxi Raxi 9b first ascent by Adam Ondra on 27 march 2011.
  • Mamichula 9b first ascent by Adam Ondra on 8 feb 2017. First repeat : Sébastien Bouin (2019).
  • La Dura Dura 9b+ 2nd 9b+ in the world by Adam Ondra on 7 feb 2013. First repeat : Chris Sharma (2013)

    • Locations :

    Area : Spain, Cataluña (Catalunya), Provincia de Lérida (Lleida), Ponts, Oliana (Contrafor de Rumbau).
    Information  1. Zoom in to get all the rock climbing places 200 km around.
     
    : Bouldering     : Single pitch     : Multi pitches     : Deep water soloing     : Differents kind of climbing
      Rock climbing area GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   42° 4' 40" N Longitude :   1° 17' 16" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
      Parking lot GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   42° 4' 37" N Longitude :   1° 17' 19" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
    More coordinates

    VIDEOS

    • Area added by CA
    Paper Guide Books :

    Catalunya : Lleida Climbs


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