© ClimbingAway

Magic Wood

Interesting bouldering area for problems from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a (Fontainebleau grades).
Best time(s) :
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • Sept.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.
Aspect(s) : All     Altitude : 1300 m
Approach between 5 and 60 min up hill.    Kids friendly ? area around the boulders uneven for young kids.

Informations :

More than 500 problems, from 4a to 8c.   Bolting : sport climbing
Max Height : 15 m.
Rock : gneiss.    Characteristic(s) : overhang Surplomb, steep wall Dévers, vertical Vertical, slab Dalle.    Type(s) of holds : crimps, slopers.
Landing quality : uneven or steep ground (1 crash pad and 1 spotter needed) or chaotic ground (many crash pads and numerous spotters needed).
Legendary problem(s) :
  • The Left Hand Of Darkness 8a/8a+ sent by Therese Johansen on 25 april 2010.
  • Pura vida 8a+ sent by Barbara Zangerl on 4 may 2008. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2010), Dorothea Karalus (2011), Therese Johansen (2011), Brooke Raboutou (2013), Ashima Shiraishi (2013), Juliane Wurm (2014), Caroline Sinno (2015), Alex Puccio (2017), Mile Heyden (2017).
  • Unendliche geschichte 1 8a+ sent by Alex Puccio on 7 oct 2010.
  • Jack's broken heart 8a+ sent by Alex Puccio on 2 may 2011. Others outstandings sends : Shauna Coxsey (2012).
  • The Riverbed 8b 3rd 8b's female boulder by Anna Stöhr on 16 sept 2010. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2010), Megan Mascarenas (2015), Alex Puccio (2017).
  • One summer in paradise 8b sent by Ashima Shiraishi on 14 aug 2013. Others outstandings sends : Shauna Coxsey (2014), Alex Puccio (2017).
  • Wovenhand 8b sent by Alex Puccio on 25 sept 2017.
  • Steppenwolf 8b sent by Anna Stöhr on 2 april 2017.
  • New Base Line 8b+ 5th 8b+'s boulder by Bernd Zangerl on 12 dec 2002. 3rd 8b+'s female boulder sent by Shauna Coxsey on 12 july 2014. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2017), Alex Puccio (2017), Linda Sjödin (2019).
  • Unendliche Gesichte 8c first ascent by Chris Sharma on 2003.
  • Practice of the Wild 8c first ascent by Chris Sharma on 1 aug 2004. Firsts repeats : Tyler Landman (2008), Adam Ondra (2011), Carlo Traversi (2012), James Webb (2014), Nalle Hukkataival (2014), Martin Stráník (2014), Toshi Takeuchi (2015), Ryuichi Murai (2017), Alex Khazanov (2017).
  • In search of time lost 8c first ascent by Daniel Woods on 9 may 2008. Firsts repeats : Daï Koyamada (2011), Carlo Traversi (2012), Tamás Zupán (2014), Ryuichi Murai (2017).
  • Ill Trill 8c first ascent by Paul Robinson on 12 oct 2010. Firsts repeats : Daniel Woods (2011), Nalle Hukkataival (2015), Gabriele Moroni (2015).
  • Believe in two 8c first ascent by Chris Webb Parsons on 16 oct 2010.
  • La force tranquille 8c first ascent by Daniel Woods on 14 oct 2011. First repeat : Nalle Hukkataival (2013).
  • The Understanding 8c first ascent by Nalle Hukkataival on 15 june 2013. Firsts repeats : James Webb (2014), Vadim Timonov (2018).
  • La grosse Tarlouze 8c first ascent by Michael Piccolruaz on 3 april 2015. First repeat : Christof Rauch (2019).
  • Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 8c first ascent by Matt Fultz on 22 may 2019
  • Further information(s) : Wild camping prohibited. A camping area for climbers was fitted. Price Camping 2017: 9.50 CHF

    Locations :

    Area : Switzerland, Kanton Graubünden, Bezirk Hinterrhein, Chur, Ausserferrera.
    Information  1. Zoom in to get all the rock climbing places 200 km around.
     
    : Bouldering     : Single pitch     : Multi pitches     : Deep water soloing     : Differents kind of climbing
      Rock climbing area GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   46° 33' 47" N Longitude :   9° 26' 12" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
      Parking lot GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   46° 34' 4" N Longitude :   9° 26' 17" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
    More coordinates

    VIDEOS

  • Area added by CA
    Paper Guide Books :


    Swiss Bloc °1

    Internet Guide Books :

    sloper.climbing.nl