© ClimbingAway
Tautavel (Les Gouleyrous) - France

Magic Wood

Interesting bouldering area for problems from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a (Fontainebleau grades).
Best time(s) :
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • Sept.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.
Aspect(s) : All     Altitude : 1300 m
Approach between 5 and 60 min up hill.    Kids friendly ? area around the boulders uneven for young kids.

Informations :

More than 500 problems, from 4a to 8c.   Bolting : sport climbing
Max Height : 15 m.
Rock : gneiss.    Characteristic(s) : overhang Surplomb, steep wall Dévers, vertical Vertical, slab Dalle.    Type(s) of holds : crimps, slopers.
Landing quality : uneven or steep ground (1 crash pad and 1 spotter needed) or chaotic ground (many crash pads and numerous spotters needed).
Legendary problem(s) :
  • The Left Hand Of Darkness 8a/8a+ sent by Therese Johansen on 25 april 2010. Others outstandings sends : Michaela Kiersch (2022), Alex Puccio (2022).
  • Pura Vida 8a+ sent by Barbara Zangerl on 4 may 2008. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2010), Dorothea Karalus (2011), Therese Johansen (2011), Brooke Raboutou (2013), Ashima Shiraishi (2013), Juliane Wurm (2014), Caroline Sinno (2015), Alex Puccio (2017), Mile Heyden (2017), Marine Thévenet (2019), Nina Williams (2022).
  • Unendliche Geschichte 1 8a+ sent by Alex Puccio on 7 oct 2010.
  • Jack's Broken Heart 8a+ sent by Alex Puccio on 2 may 2011. Others outstandings sends : Shauna Coxsey (2012), Marine Thévenet (2019), Frances Bensley (2019), Staša Gejo (2020).
  • Electric Boogie 8a+ sent by Marine Thévenet on 1 june 2021.
  • New Base Line stand 8a+ sent by Laura Rogora on 15 oct 2021.
  • Sofa Surfer 8a+ sent by Laura Rogora on 15 oct 2021.
  • Electro Boogie 8a+ sent by Michaela Kiersch on 25 july 2022.
  • Body Count 8a+ sent by Michaela Kiersch on 10 june 2022.
  • The Bizarre Ride 8a+ sent by Alex Puccio on 30 may 2022.
  • The Riverbed 8b 3rd 8b's female boulder by Anna Stöhr on 16 sept 2010. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2010), Megan Mascarenas (2015), Alex Puccio (2017), Michaela Kiersch (2022).
  • One Summer in Paradise 8b sent by Ashima Shiraishi on 14 aug 2013. Others outstandings sends : Shauna Coxsey (2014), Alex Puccio (2017), Michaela Kiersch (2022).
  • Wovenhand 8b sent by Alex Puccio on 25 sept 2017.
  • Steppenwolf 8b sent by Anna Stöhr on 2 april 2017. Others outstandings sends : Molly Thompson Smith (2021), Michaela Kiersch (2022), Alex Puccio (2022).
  • Tigris 8b sent by Alex Puccio on 3 june 2022.
  • New Base Line 8b+ 5th 8b+'s boulder by Bernd Zangerl on 12 dec 2002. 3rd 8b+'s female boulder sent by Shauna Coxsey on 12 july 2014. Others outstandings sends : Anna Stöhr (2017), Alex Puccio (2017), Linda Sjödin (2019), Marine Thévenet (2020), Katie Lamb (2021), Michaela Kiersch (2022).
  • Unendliche Gesichte 1+2 8b+ first ascent by Chris Sharma on 2003.
  • Tigris sit 8b+ sent by Michaela Kiersch on 7 june 2022. Others outstandings sends : Alex Puccio (2022).
  • Power of Now 8b+/c first ascent by Giuliano Cameroni on 29 june 2020. Firsts repeats : Tim Reuser (2021), Elias Iagnemma (2021).
  • Power of Now direct 8b+/c first ascent by Simon Lorenzi on 12 july 2021.
  • Practice of the Wild 8c first ascent by Chris Sharma on 1 aug 2004. Firsts repeats : Tyler Landman (2008), Adam Ondra (2011), Carlo Traversi (2012), James Webb (2014), Nalle Hukkataival (2014), Andy Gullsten (2014), Martin Stráník (2014), Toshi Takeuchi (2015), Ryuichi Murai (2017), Alex Khazanov (2017), William Bosi (2018), Clement Giani (2019), Nicolas Pelorson (2022).
  • In Search of Time Lost 8c first ascent by Daniel Woods on 9 may 2008. Firsts repeats : Daï Koyamada (2011), Carlo Traversi (2012), Tamás Zupán (2014), Ryuichi Murai (2017).
  • Ill Trill 8c first ascent by Paul Robinson on 12 oct 2010. Firsts repeats : Daniel Woods (2011), Nalle Hukkataival (2015), Gabriele Moroni (2015), Rob Denayer (2021).
  • Believe in Two 8c first ascent by Chris Webb Parsons on 16 oct 2010.
  • La Force Tranquille 8c first ascent by Daniel Woods on 14 oct 2011. Firsts repeats : Nalle Hukkataival (2013), Giuliano Cameroni (2021), Simon Lorenzi (2021), Nicolas Pelorson (2022).
  • The Understanding 8c first ascent by Nalle Hukkataival on 15 june 2013. Firsts repeats : James Webb (2014), Vadim Timonov (2018), Clément Lechaptois (2020).
  • La Grosse Tarlouze 8c first ascent by Michael Piccolruaz on 3 april 2015. Firsts repeats : Christof Rauch (2019), Clement Giani (2019).
  • Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 8c first ascent by Peter Würth on 3 aug 2009. Firsts repeats : Andy Gullsten (2014), Christof Rauch (2017), Matt Fultz (2019), Linus Raatz (2021), Stephan Vogt (2021).
  • Stil Vor Talent 8c/8c+ first ascent by Clement Giani on 8 aug 2020. First repeat : Stephan Vogt (2021)
    • Further information(s) : Wild camping prohibited. A camping area for climbers was fitted. Price Camping 2017: 9.50 CHF

    Locations :

    Area : Switzerland, Kanton Graubünden, Bezirk Hinterrhein, Chur, Ausserferrera.
    Information  1. Zoom in to get all the rock climbing places 200 km around.
     
    : Bouldering     : Single pitch     : Multi pitches     : Deep water soloing     : Differents kind of climbing
      Rock climbing area GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   46° 33' 47" N Longitude :   9° 26' 12" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
      Parking lot GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   46° 34' 4" N Longitude :   9° 26' 17" E    Sexagesimal & Orientation
    More coordinates

    VIDEOS

    • Area added by CA
    Paper Guide Books :

    Swiss Bloc °1

    Internet Guide Books :

    sloper.climbing.nl


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    Submit pictures for Magic Wood