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Joshua Tree - united-states
Alan Moore & Scott Cosgrove in The New Deal 5.14a
The New Deal in Joshua Tree National Park is the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Now almost a decade has passed and the route has yet to be climbed successfully again. The New Deal was one of the very first rappel bolted routes in Joshua Tree and marks the beginning of the sport climbing revolution in the California. This did not sit well with Stonemaster legend John Bachar who promptly chopped all the bolts on the route. Cosgrove offered to settle it over a parking lot fist fight but Bachar declined. John Bachar later apologized and gave Cozzy nice bolts to fix the route. The New Deal was a visionary rock climb for its time and still stands as one of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree National Park today.
Shawangunks (The Gunks) - united-states
Sam Elias & Russ Clune in Brozone 5.14b
Russ Clune is a cornerstone of Black Diamond history and an integral part of climbing’s humble beginnings in America. Recently, BD Athlete Sam Elias paid Clune a visit at his home in the Gunks, where he sampled the historic routes of the past, and attempted a rare ascent of the new-school trad testpiece: Brozone (5.14b). But perhaps the most important thing Sam walked away with, amid all the climbing history lessons, and constant, often hilarious, Clune cliff-banter, was an intimate view into the soul of a man who has dedicated his entire life to climbing.
RMNP (Rocky Mountain National Park) - united-states
Jon Glassberg, Kevin Jorgeson in Stranger in a Strange Land V12, The End of the Beginning 5.13
Une belle ambiance montagne pour cette session bloc hivernale au secteur Hallett Boulder. Kevin Jorgeson réalise lui la première réalisation bloc d'une voie ...