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Shawangunks (The Gunks)

bouldering and single pitch routes rock climbing area
Best time(s) :
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • Sept.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.
Aspect(s) : S-SE-E     Altitude : 350 m
Approach between 10 and 20 min easy up hill
Rock : quartzite, quartz.    Characteristic(s) : dihedral Dièdre, overhang Surplomb, steep wall Dévers, vertical Vertical.    Type(s) of holds : jugs, crimps, cracks, slopers.

Informations :

Interesting bouldering area for problems up to 5c, from 6a to 6c, from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a (Fontainebleau grades).
More than 200 problems, from V0 to V14, spread over many areas.
Max Height : 8 m.
Kids friendly ? area around the boulders reasonable for young kids.
Landing quality : flat ground (1 crash pad needed) or uneven or steep ground (1 crash pad and 1 spotter needed).
Single pitch routes
Interesting rock climbing area for routes from 6a to 6c, from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a (french grades).
More than 1000 routes, from 5.2 to 5.14b, spread over many crags.    Bolting : top rope, traditionnal climbing.
Max Height : 80 m.
Kids friendly ? foot of the crag reasonable for young kids.
Legendary problem(s) :
  • Foops 5.11c 1st 5.11c(6c+) in the world by Henry Barber on 1973.
  • 5.11d's 1st female 5.11d's (7a) by Lynn Hill on 1977.
  • Kansas city 5.12b 2nd 5.12b (7b) in the world by John Bragg on 1972.
  • Yellow Crack Variation 5.12c 1st female 5.12c (7b+) by Lynn Hill on 1984.
  • Super crack 5.12c 2nd 5.12c (7b+) in the world by Steve Wunsch on 1974. 3rd 5.12c (7b+) in the world sent by Ron Kauk on 1977.
  • Organic Iron 5.12d 2nd female 5.12d (7c) by Lynn Hill on 1984.
  • Vandals 5.13a 1st female 5.13a (7c+) by Lynn Hill on 1984.
  • Artificial intelligence 5.13a 2nd female 5.13a (7c+) by Lynn Hill on 1985.
  • Running man 5.13d 5th female 5.13d (8b) by Lynn Hill on 1989
  • Further information(s) : 80% trad climbing, 20% toprope
    The ratings at the Gunks are stiff.
    Host the firsts feminine 11d by Lynn Hill in the 70's.
    Approach isn't bad trails are well constructed and surrounded by a carriage road.
    Most of the Gunks is part of the Mohonk Preserve. Climbers must purchase a $20 (as of 2018) day pass to climb at the Gunks or an annual pass ($95 as of 2018). Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 just below the cliffs, for more information or to get your pass. Passes are also often available on weekends from rangers at the steel bridge, the West Trapps lot, or at Lower Coxing, among others. If you get a day pass, keep your wristband, as the $20 cost can be credited toward the cost of an annual pass.

    Locations :

    Area : United States, State of New York, Ulster County, Newburg, New Paltz.
    Information  1. Zoom in to get all the rock climbing places 200 km around.
    : Bouldering     : Single pitch     : Multi pitches     : Deep water soloing     : Differents kind of climbing
      Rock climbing area GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   41° 44' 29" N Longitude :   74° 10' 55" W    Sexagesimal & Orientation
      Parking lot GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   41° 44' 9" N Longitude :   74° 12' 0" W    Sexagesimal & Orientation
    More coordinates


  • Area added by CA