Jim Holloway was one of the first of a new generation of boulderers for whom the sport was a lifestyle rather than a recreation. He began bouldering in the early 1970s in Boulder, Colorado, and in 1973 established his first notable route, Just Right (so named because it fit his very tall frame). In 1975 he put up Trice (aka: AHR - Another Holloway Route) – at today's grade of V11 or V12, exceptionally difficult for the 1970s.
Holloway was one of the first boulderers to devote more than a few hours to creating a particular route. For example a challenging problem with undercling on the fingertips was a key obstacle, and Jim used an artificial contrivance in his home – a simulator – to train for the move ...
In 1977, Holloway climbed what he considers to be his hardest FA, Slapshot (V13?) on Dinosaur Mountain in the Flatirons outside of Boulder (CO). This challenge may very well be unrepeated as of 2006.
(wikipedia) |