Interesting rock climbing area for routes from 6a to 6c and from 7a to 7c (french grades).
Best time(s) :
Aspect(s) : W-SW Altitude : 750 m
Approach between 25 and 35 min up hill. Kids friendly ? foot of the crag uneven for young kids.
Between 25 and 50 routes, from 4c to 7b and some projects , spread over 3 crags Bolting : sport climbing
Average Height : 35 m.
granite. Characteristic(s) : vertical . Type(s) of holds : crimps, cracks.
Répartition des voies :
Further information(s) : Recently-bolted faces. The best sectors are San Bavinzu and the second pitches of the Secteur Principal.
San Bavinzu sector: Around fifteen routes have been established on this beautiful fawn-coloured granite crag, making best use of the face. Often technical, they require concentration, precision, and a touch of self-motivation to get to the skin-saving belay. Beware, on a few routes the first bolt is a little high.
The Campanile (the needle) sector: Only three routes all of limited interest. From left to right: Sapapaya 6a ; Séduisante et peu connue 6c ; Cunfraternita 6a+.
The Secteur Principal, 10 minutes further down is a really best option. With 30 or so pitches it’s the big crag in the area. The routes here are of varying degrees of interest because they are sometimes very short or too close to one another. However, there are still very, very beautiful lines, especially in the upper part of the crag.
Approach: The path begins 5.1km from the Croci fountain, opposite a large oak tree and a pine tree. A red and green waymarker on a boulder indicates the beginning of the path. Park as best you can at the edge of the road.
San Bavinzu: When you reach a rocky open area after walking for around 20 minutes, look for cairns which descend (signpost not easily visible at the edge of the path).
Campanile: Continue traversing for another 5 minutes to the distinctive Campanile needle (upper sector). Just beyond this, a path descends to the main sector. Make sure you follow the cairns since the path is not easy going. A handrail and a few steps are in place to make the tricky sections safer.
France, Corse, Corse-du-Sud (2A), Ajaccio, Moca-Croce.
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