© ClimbingAway
Margalef (Racó de les Tenebres) - Spain

The Buttermilks

Interesting bouldering area for problems up to 5c, from 6a to 6c, from 7a to 7c and starting from 8a (Fontainebleau grades).
Best time(s) :
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • Sept.
  • Oct.
  • Nov.
  • Dec.
Aspect(s) : All     Altitude : 1950 m
Approach between 2 and 10 min easy up hill then easy down hill.    Kids friendly ? area around the boulders comfortable for young kids.

Informations :

More than 300 problems, from VB to V16.   Bolting : sport climbing
Max Height : 15 m.
Rock : granite.    Characteristic(s) : slab Dalle, vertical Vertical, steep wall Dévers.    Type(s) of holds : side pulls, jugs, crimps, cracks, slopers.
Landing quality : flat ground (1 crash pad needed).
We liked this/these problem(s) : Hero Roof V0 ; Green Wall Arete V1 ; Iron Man V4
Legendary problem(s) :
Evilution V12 (F.A. Jason Kehl 2002); Mandala V12/8a+ (F.A. Chris Sharma 2000, sit start V13 F.A. Tony Lamiche 2002), Ambrosia V11 (14 m!) (F.A. Kevin Jorgeson 2009)
  • Plain High Drifter V11 3rd V11 (7c+/8a)'s female boulder by Lisa Rands on march 2001.
  • A Maze of Death V11/V12 sent by Alex Puccio on 1 dec 2008. Others outstandings sends : Alex Johnson (2009), Ashima Shiraishi (2014), Akiyo Noguchi (2016), Nina Williams (2017), Michaela Kiersch (2018), Katie Lamb (2018).
  • The Mystery V11/V12 sent by Alex Johnson on 16 jan 2009.
  • The Mandala V12 sent by Lisa Rands on 18 jan 2008. Others outstandings sends : Alex Johnson (2011).
  • The Buttermilker V12 sent by Alex Puccio on 26 feb 2015.
  • Babeurre V12 sent by Ashima Shiraishi on 27 dec 2014.
  • Direction V13 sent by Alex Puccio on 4 march 2015.
  • The Swarm V13 sent by Ashima Shiraishi on 1 jan 2015. Others outstandings sends : Alex Puccio (2015).
  • Blood Meridian V13 sent by Ashima Shiraishi on 27 dec 2014.
  • Lucid Dreaming V15 first ascent by Paul Robinson on 30 march 2010. Firsts repeats : Daniel Woods (2014), Alex Megos (2015), Toru Nakajima (2017), James Webb (2020).
  • The Process V16 first ascent by Daniel Woods on 18 jan 2015
    • Further information(s) : Take care with Rattlesnakes during the firsts hot days of spring.
    Stay on used tracks.

    Locations :

    Area : United States, California, Inyo County, Los Angeles, Bishop.
    Information  1. Zoom in to get all the rock climbing places 200 km around.
     
    : Bouldering     : Single pitch     : Multi pitches     : Deep water soloing     : Differents kind of climbing
      Rock climbing area GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   37° 19' 43" N Longitude :   118° 34' 30" W    Sexagesimal & Orientation
      Parking lot GPS Coordinates :   Latitude :   37° 19' 48" N Longitude :   118° 34' 44" W    Sexagesimal & Orientation
    More coordinates

    VIDEOS

    • Area added by CA
    Paper Guide Books :

    Bishop Bouldering


    Submit pictures for The Buttermilks
    Submit pictures for The Buttermilks